Krakow, 2015
Day one. At 6.30am, twenty-two sleepy members of Lincoln College Chapel Choir gathered at Gatwick Airport to catch a flight to Krakow. Upon arrival we were met by Eleanor Giraud, Lincoln’s Lord Crewe Junior Research Fellow in music, who was joining us for the trip. We squeezed ourselves onto an already busy bus heading to the centre of Krakow and after a short walk we arrived at our hostel, where we were eagerly greeted by the hostel staff. We were staying at Ars Hostel, in the Stradom district, a short walk from Kazimierz. Having compared each other’s rooms and dropped off our bags we set out to find some food. For many of us, Polish dumplings (pierogi) were high on the agenda and they did not disappoint. In the afternoon we had a brief choir rehearsal in the communal room in the hostel, much to the amusement of other hostel guests. Tired from the day’s travel and eager to relax, we retreated to an underground bar that evening where we discovered something of a Polish speciality: cheap vodka shots in every flavour imaginable.
Day two. No time for a lie in! We were singing after the midday Mass at the Dominican Basilica of the Holy Trinity and we had to be there to rehearse at 10.30. Following a confused ‘conversation’ with a nun with whom we discovered we had no languages in common we were greeted by a Dominican brother. He led us through the delightful cloisters to our rehearsal room, but not before he had proudly showed us the oldest room on the site, a gorgeous little underground chapel. As we were singing a short concert immediately after the service, we took our seats before mass began. The church was cold and by the end of the mass it seemed even colder: little did we know that this was the first of many cold churches we would visit during the week. The music for the Mass was provided by a seven Dominican brothers, accompanied by the organ. It was simple but extremely beautiful, and very different from what we are used to. Most of the congregation stayed to hear us sing, and they were a highly appreciative audience. We sang for an hour, with a short rest in the middle while chapel precentor Joseph Mason played the rather imposing organ at the back of the church. That afternoon we were free to explore Krakow before another concert at the Church of Ss. Peter and Paul in the evening. We turned up to an empty and cold church, advertising a concert with a string quartet. Confused, the organ scholars tried to find out was going on. Despite numerous email and telephone conversations with the church there had been a mix up and they were not expecting us that evening. Though disappointed, we were all somewhat relieved not to have to sing twice in one day and went in search of more dumplings for dinner.
Day two. No time for a lie in! We were singing after the midday Mass at the Dominican Basilica of the Holy Trinity and we had to be there to rehearse at 10.30. Following a confused ‘conversation’ with a nun with whom we discovered we had no languages in common we were greeted by a Dominican brother. He led us through the delightful cloisters to our rehearsal room, but not before he had proudly showed us the oldest room on the site, a gorgeous little underground chapel. As we were singing a short concert immediately after the service, we took our seats before mass began. The church was cold and by the end of the mass it seemed even colder: little did we know that this was the first of many cold churches we would visit during the week. The music for the Mass was provided by a seven Dominican brothers, accompanied by the organ. It was simple but extremely beautiful, and very different from what we are used to. Most of the congregation stayed to hear us sing, and they were a highly appreciative audience. We sang for an hour, with a short rest in the middle while chapel precentor Joseph Mason played the rather imposing organ at the back of the church. That afternoon we were free to explore Krakow before another concert at the Church of Ss. Peter and Paul in the evening. We turned up to an empty and cold church, advertising a concert with a string quartet. Confused, the organ scholars tried to find out was going on. Despite numerous email and telephone conversations with the church there had been a mix up and they were not expecting us that evening. Though disappointed, we were all somewhat relieved not to have to sing twice in one day and went in search of more dumplings for dinner.
the Dominican Basilica of the Holy Trinity
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LCCC in front of Wawel Castle
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Day three. Today was a free day and a number of the choir decided to visit Auschwitz, which is only an hour and a half away by car. It was a startlingly beautiful warm and sunny day. Our guide was fantastic and gave us all plenty to think about as we walked around the two camps. It was a unsettling experience, but one which we will never forget.
Day four. A short bus ride away from Krakow are the Wieliczka Salt Mines. We had arranged to sing in the biggest and most impressive of several chapels hidden within the tunnels and shafts of the mine, the St Kinga Chapel. Our witty guide led us through the amazing underground chambers and lakes, carefully explaining the mine’s history to us and even, much to our surprise, encouraging us to lick the walls. Once in the Kinga Chapel we paused to sing a few pieces. There were few tourists in the chapel but several stopped to listen to us sing in the incredible acoustic. We hurried back to Krakow that afternoon as we had another singing engagement at the Church of Our Lady of Perpetual Help (Redemptorystów ) that evening. We arrived at the church to a room of hot drinks and another Polish speciality, Kremówka, also known as ‘Pope cake’. We sang a few pieces during the mass and afterwards, shivering with cold, we sang our full programme for a large audience. Click here to see some photos of our concert. That evening we went to a bowling alley for some competitive relaxation.
Day four. A short bus ride away from Krakow are the Wieliczka Salt Mines. We had arranged to sing in the biggest and most impressive of several chapels hidden within the tunnels and shafts of the mine, the St Kinga Chapel. Our witty guide led us through the amazing underground chambers and lakes, carefully explaining the mine’s history to us and even, much to our surprise, encouraging us to lick the walls. Once in the Kinga Chapel we paused to sing a few pieces. There were few tourists in the chapel but several stopped to listen to us sing in the incredible acoustic. We hurried back to Krakow that afternoon as we had another singing engagement at the Church of Our Lady of Perpetual Help (Redemptorystów ) that evening. We arrived at the church to a room of hot drinks and another Polish speciality, Kremówka, also known as ‘Pope cake’. We sang a few pieces during the mass and afterwards, shivering with cold, we sang our full programme for a large audience. Click here to see some photos of our concert. That evening we went to a bowling alley for some competitive relaxation.
St Kinga Chapel in the Wieliczka Salt Mines
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Concert at the Church of Our Lady of Perpetual Help
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Day five. Another free day until the evening, most of us spent our time discovering the sights of Kraków. Many of us explored the picturesque castle and indoor market, while others visited Oskar Schindler’s factory which is now a museum. That evening we met at St Stanislaus’s Church, the Church on the Rock, for a post-mass concert. This was undoubtedly the coldest church we had sung in all week. As this was our last performance in Krakow we gave it everything we had, to a small but appreciative audience. Certain choir members were eager to perform again and that evening we stumbled across a karaoke club in which the soprano section decided to impress the club with a tasteful rendition of ‘Let it go’.
Day six. Our final day in Krakow was another free day. That evening we were treated to a delicious three course end-of-tour meal thanks to the generosity of the Zilkha Fund. This was a lovely way to celebrate the past week. For most of us it was an early night as we had to leave the hostel at 7.00am the next morning to fly home.
We are grateful to the Dominican Basilica of the Holy Trinity, the Church of Our Lady of Perpetual Help and the Church on the Rock for allowing us to sing in their churches and for their hospitality, and to Ars Hostel for being so accommodating. We would like to express our thanks to the Old Members of Lincoln College for their generous Old Member’s Annual Fund grant, without which this tour would not have been possible. We would also like to thank Przemek Rosinski for all his help in securing venues, Eleanor Giraud for her amazing organisational skills, the Zilkha Fund for supporting Eleanor’s trip, Slawek and his colleagues at Ars Hostel for their exceptional hospitality, Dr Rev Jack Dunn for his continuous support, and the choral and organ scholars for the hard work they put into organising an outstanding tour.
More pictures from the Krakow Tour can be found in our gallery.
Day six. Our final day in Krakow was another free day. That evening we were treated to a delicious three course end-of-tour meal thanks to the generosity of the Zilkha Fund. This was a lovely way to celebrate the past week. For most of us it was an early night as we had to leave the hostel at 7.00am the next morning to fly home.
We are grateful to the Dominican Basilica of the Holy Trinity, the Church of Our Lady of Perpetual Help and the Church on the Rock for allowing us to sing in their churches and for their hospitality, and to Ars Hostel for being so accommodating. We would like to express our thanks to the Old Members of Lincoln College for their generous Old Member’s Annual Fund grant, without which this tour would not have been possible. We would also like to thank Przemek Rosinski for all his help in securing venues, Eleanor Giraud for her amazing organisational skills, the Zilkha Fund for supporting Eleanor’s trip, Slawek and his colleagues at Ars Hostel for their exceptional hospitality, Dr Rev Jack Dunn for his continuous support, and the choral and organ scholars for the hard work they put into organising an outstanding tour.
More pictures from the Krakow Tour can be found in our gallery.
Choir members in Wawel Castle
Marion Bettsworth, Organ Scholar (2013 - 2015)